Custom-fit CPU Heatsink

When you buy a heatsink for a CPU, you have to ensure it is built for the type of CPU you are using. Different types or generations of CPU have different fitting mechanisms. For instance, AMD's Socket A retention clip is different from that of the Socket 939, etc. Most branded heatsinks nowadays come with different retention clips and fittings to allow you to use them on the various platforms & CPU sockets e.g. Intel's Socket 478 & LGA775 and AMD's Socket 754, 939, 940 and AM2. However, it is safer that you read up on the specs or ask before you pay. Many heatsinks do not bundle fittings for older types of CPU anymore - I used to see them bundled with retention clips for Intel's Pentium 4 Socket 478 but this is no longer the case.

So, what do you do if you are trying to set up an older generation PC but you don't have the right heatsink for the CPU. Let me show you what I did with my Socket 478 Pentium 4 CPU, the cost effective way.

I have this Foxconn heatsink which wouldn't fit on any CPU that I have. Instead of letting it sit in the storeroom or throwing it away, I decided to use it for this project.
















Socket 478 platform has heatsink held in place by locking it onto a rectangular plastic surrounding the CPU socket (the black thing in the picture), which is secured onto the motherboard by 4 pins or screws. If you want a fast solution, use some cable ties to tie the heatsink onto this plastic. However, it won't look nice. I needed a more elegant solution that was simple.

The first thing I did was to remove that plastic piece. As the original heatsink retention clip was useless, I had to find another way to hold the heatsink in place. I figured that an "H" beam would do the job. So, off I went to the drawing board for a fast sketch.

















I used the plastic from a spoilt keyboard to construct the "H" beam. It was the ideal candidate because it was thick and hard. Based on the outline I sketched, I cut a rough shape using my Dremel.
















After some filing and sanding, the "H" beam looked good. I used brass stand-offs, similar to those supplied with PC cases, as securing points for the motherboard and "H" beam.
















The stand-offs are slightly shorter than the height from the surface of the motherboard to the area on the heatsink where the "H" beam is placed. This is to ensure that the heatsink is secured tightly. Here's the final product - cost effective and functional.

Keyboard Maintenance

What do you do when you get a used keyboard or mouse from someone? Happily go home and start using it? I advise against it. Clean it up first. Keyboard and mouse are the most touched items of a computer. They are really dirty. Why? Just reflect on our own habits. Many of us like to eat while using the PC. Sometimes, we have that itchy feeling and start to scratch ourselves, dig noses, ears, here, there and there (you get the idea) before resuming to type or move/click the mouse. Well, it is not that bad if you are the only user around. What if you need to share the PC with someone whose favourite past time is nose-digging? Speaking about this, I had an ex-colleague who had the habit of NOT washing his hands after going to the toilet! Everytime I used his PC, I had to go disinfect my hands. Anyway, keyboards are cheap nowadays. You can get a new one or spend a bit of effort to clean it up. In this article, I take the poor man's approach to clean a used keyboard & make it look brand new again!

I recently got a used Compaq keyboard from a mate. It looked decent and worked really well. Just that there were deep scratches here and there (not obvious in the picture though). They keys definitely felt better than the first version of Microsoft Natural Keyboard that I had been using. So, off I went to clean it up and gave it a facelift i.e. a new coat of paint. I maintained the original colour combination (silver and black) to match my newly restored PC case.







The first step is to pry the keys off. This is an easy job and there shouldn't be any accidents. Just get a flat head screwdriver or ruler and start prying.

You can start from any key. I started on the number pad area. Once you have removed some keys, you will be able to see the dirt trapped underneath. In my case, I found dust, bits of cookies, some dead ants, hair, and stuff that looked like dandruff and "gold" from nose-mining. Work your way through the rest of the keys.



Keep the keys in a container and soak them in water plus detergent or disinfectant overnight. Give them a brush and rinse with water before drying.

I detached the silver-coloured plastic piece for painting. It was straightforward - just turn over the keyboard and remove all screws. There are 2 screws hidden underneath the rubber stoppers located on the bottom corners. Remove them and you shall see the screws.

I gave it some light sanding so that the new paint would stick better. Just make sure the surface feels smooth to the touch and you'll be fine.

















I gave it a new coat of silver paint using the normal acrylic spray paint available at hardware stores. Those are good enough to be used on plastics. Don't bother painting areas under the keys. Those areas are not visible. After you are done with painting, it is best that you leave it to settle for a few more days before reassembling the keyboard. I left it alone for a week. Now I have a keyboard that not only looks and feels as good as new, it is also as clean as new. See for yourself...